Every once in awhile I get too busy work-wise to put together a blog post so I throw up a photo and call it a day. We've been busy working on the Toro Bravo Cookbook so that means a lot of recipe testing and essay writing. I love it all -- having so much fun with this project. I'm also doing all my other usual work and then some -- all of it involving words, food, or words + food. Good stuff. I hope that you're doing well and enjoying spring. Happy late April Fools' Day! Hope someone got you good this year. I fooled a few...
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Cooking from Lucky Peach
I've been pretty loud and clear about my love of Lucky Peach magazine published by McSweeney's. I wrote about it here in late November but at that point I had yet to cook from it. (We also hadn't sealed the deal for the Toro Bravo Cookbook with McSweeney's, fall 2013, at that point...) Now that I've cooked from it -- and now that issue number three has hit the shelves -- I'm putting photos of a couple of the things I've made here. That's it. Oh, and go get yourself a copy if you don't have it already. It really just keeps getting better and better.
Tender by Nigel Slater
When I first started writing about food professionally in 2003 I turned to Nigel Slater and his writing in The Observer and I loved his voice. A lot of food writing can wax poetic and favor form over the content but Nigel Slater's writing never does. It's honest and I've really enjoyed reading him over the years. If you haven't read his memoir Toast I recommend it. It's a wonderful book and I had fun reviewing it for Culinate way back when. (While putting this post together I learned that a film based on it starring Freddie Highmore and Helena Bonham Carter aired this past Christmas on BBC1 and at the Berlin, Taipei and Warsaw Film Festivals. Can't wait to see it!)
I purchased one of Nigel Slater's newest cookbooks -- Tender -- pretty soon after it hit shelves last spring in America and I've enjoyed cooking from it ever since. (It was published in two volumes in the UK in 2009; in the US by Ten Speed Press in 2011, the second US volume Ripe comes out this April.) The book is part recipe and part narrative -- giving you background into Slater's London home garden that he broke ground for in early 2000 and maintains with his partner.
Chapters are based on ingredients sourced from Slater's garden and cooked in his kitchen so it's homespun and inspiring and feeds right into my Yard Fresh ways. I love this book and I hope that you will too. Here are some of the tasty foods that I've cooked from it lately...
Tender: A Cook and His Vegetable Patch by Nigel Slater pub. date April, 2011 620 pages $40, Ten Speed Press www.nigelslater.com
Yard Fresh Pt. 20
I planted my peas over the weekend even though I usually wait until early April. It's been so warm that I thought I'd give it a shot. While planting them I noticed that the nettles are all coming up around the front porch along with the rhubarb and all the tiny oregano, peppermint, sorrel and lemon balm.
I bought a bale of straw last weekend at Urban Farm Store and weeded a few areas in the front and then covered them with it. Next weekend I'll do the same in the back and plant some borage and arugula. I'm so happy that spring is on its way. I'm really looking forward to gardening this summer especially now that we cut down the old apple tree in the backyard. It's bittersweet because we really loved that tree but it was old, hollowed out and threatening to do some structural damage. We'll also get a lot more backyard sun light now that it's gone.
Hope you've been getting outside more now that it's been so nice. Here are a few of the tasty things we've been cooking and eating lately...
Yard Fresh Pt. 19Yard Fresh Pt. 18Yard Fresh Pt. 17Yard Fresh Pt. 16Yard Fresh Pt. 15Yard Fresh Pt. 14Yard Fresh Pt. 13Yard Fresh Pt. 12Yard Fresh Pt. 11Yard Fresh Pt. 10Yard Fresh Pt. 9Yard Fresh Pt. 8Yard Fresh Pt. 7Yard Fresh Pt. 6Yard Fresh Pt. 5Yard Fresh Pt. 4Yard Fresh Pt. 3Yard Fresh Pt. 2Yard Fresh Pt. 1
The Parish: Q&A with Tobias Hogan and Ethan Powell
If you haven't heard already these two fine looking fellows -- co-owners of EaT Oyster Bar on North Williams -- are set to open another Cajun/Creole restaurant in the Pearl this summer called The Parish in the space that used to house In Good Taste. According to a recent press release:
"The menu at The Parish blends urban New Orleans cuisine with the country-style Cajun cooking. Focusing on locally sourced ingredients, the menu will reach beyond seafood and oysters to local wild game birds, rabbit, and even a whole pig. The co-owners have strong ties to the oyster farmers in Oregon, CA and Washington and will continue to offer fresh raw oysters year-round with a shucking bar and a new retail oyster program. A section of the menu will include classic southern dishes that won’t change such as BBQ shrimp, Seafood gumbo, Shrimp Étouffée, and an assortment of po’boy sandwiches."
Here's what Tobias had to say to me recently about The Parish, which is set to open this summer...
Why the Pearl?
We like it because of it's central location for the Metro area. We'll have close proximity to the central business district providing access to business luncheons as well as after work meet-ups. We're also excited about the opportunity to expose our concept to people who live on the west side of the city and the suburbs to the west who don't generally head to the east side of the city.
So you'll be selling oysters wholesale and retail?
We will have an oyster wholesale center to service downtown restaurant customers as well as a retail oyster basin up front to sell directly to the public.
What are a couple menu items that you're really excited about?
Our Duck Confit Gumbo (served with a crispy Confit Leg on top) is really good, we're also going to be doing some great hot apps and oysters off the grill that will be visible up front by the oyster bar.
Can you give me some details about the space?
It will have a large visible oyster bar with other fresh seafood available. There will be some nice booth seating and a nice big bar where we'll have local wines on tap by the glass, several local beers on tap and serving some great cocktails from the pre-prohibition influence that Portland has become famous for. To reference this tradition we're referring to the bar as Bar Vieux Carre or "The Old Quarter" or a common name for the French Quarter in NOLA. It's also a Tennessee Williams play set in NOLA.
Will there be live music at The Parish?
We're planning on having a classic Jazz Brunch on Saturday and Sundays maybe music will happen other nights, but we don't have plans for that quite yet.
Number one thing that you're looking forward to with the new restaurant?
Getting open and presenting the space to our city as a showcase Creole restaurant and oyster bar. We've been strong proponents of oysters for many years with EaT and before. We're very excited to update the concept of an oyster bar using our Farm connections to showcase the best oysters from the NW and beyond. The Parish (and Vieux Carre Bar) opening summer 2012 231 NW 11th Street, Portland, Oregon
Happy Anniversary Blog: Three years and counting
It's been three years since I started this blog and I still really enjoy doing it. It's especially good for me now that I'm freelancing less. Most of my writing work these days goes to writing the Toro Bravo Cookbook, being an editor and publicist at Hawthorne Books and working on my fiction. I pitch a story every now and again but this blog has become my most regular outlet for local food stories. I'm grateful to have it and to have loyal readers. I try to give you as much news and inspiration as I can here and I hope that you enjoy it. Below is a look back on the past year for the blog. (I did this sort of recap last year and the year before if you're interested.) Here's to 2012 -- Year of the Dragon!
Without further ado...
Spring 2011 was a really good one for nettles and I harvested a ton of them. Unfortunately I learned from experience that you should never take your dog with you foraging for them. Our poor, poor wolfie.
Spring quickly became summer in fly-by fashion since my boyfriend was busy getting his new business up and running -- Grizzly Tattoo on North Williams. I helped him kick it off in style with a huge, tasty opening party in June with food and drink donated from local restaurants, bars, breweries, food carts and me, myself and I. It was grand.
With crazy long lead times a lot of stories that I got assigned right after Food Lover's Guide to Portland came out in summer 2010 published in the summer of 2011 as well.
Late in the summer I got to tag along on a Hardy Plant Society Kitchen Garden Group outing to Montinore Estate vineyard and winery just outside Forest Grove. Some of that trip went into a story about biodynamic wine that I wrote for Willamette Week about Katherine Cole and her excellent book Voodoo Vintners...
Summer sped by -- honestly it didn't feel like we had much of it -- and we had an incredible third annual Portland Fermentation Festival at Ecotrust in October. We got a ton of publicity for it leading up and a line out the door and around the block of Ecotrust where it was held. We're working on getting more space for this year's festival.
Wordstock 2011 was a blast as always in October. I was there for my book Food Lover's Guide to Portland and also with Hawthorne Books where I'm an editor and publicist.
Lucky Peach magazine from McSweeney's made its debut in 2011 and I wrote about it after the second kick-ass issue came out in the fall.
And then several short weeks later we got to announce that McSweeney's Books is publishing the Toro Bravo Cookbook, due out fall 2013, that I'm writing, David Lanthan Reamer is photographing and my boyfriend Tyler Adams is illustrating. Fuck yeah! Go Toro Bravo!
Thanks for reading, thanks for being you! Happy 2012!
For Your Viewing Pleasure...
It was a busy weekend work-wise so I'm not feeling up to putting together a blog post at the moment. That said, I hope that this photo will give you a little food for thought as well as an eye into what I've been up. We're having a lot of fun working on the Toro Bravo Cookbook these days...
Portland's Yard, Garden & Patio Show Feb. 17-19, 2012
My good friend Karen Schwartz of Calendula Garden Design is involved yet again in a big way in this year's Yard, Garden & Patio Show at the Oregon Convention Center February 17-19. She and her friend Carol Senna of Melingo Studio Landscape Design are the coordinators/organizers of the Incredible Edible Garden which includes espaliered fruit trees, a preserving station, dining area, stacked stone beds and much more. Here's the scoop straight from the YGP website:
You are in for a very special treat. This year's Incredible Edible Garden is being transformed by garden designers Karen Schwartz and Carol Senna into a lovely French jardin potager. The goal of the potager, an ornamental vegetable or kitchen garden, is to make the function of providing food aesthetically pleasing. Plants and garden structures are chosen as much for their functionality as for their color and form to offer year round interest.
Raised beds, charming wattle fencing, tucked away dining spaces and creative, edible screening options will be on display. We hope you'll be enticed into the growing garden-to-table movement. Experts will be on hand to provide bed preparation, planting, plant selection, preserving and other food and gardening-related tips and information. Even if food gardening isn't in your future, you'll be inspired by the design elements the garden offers. We're very excited for you to see it.
It's a very elaborate and time consuming project and I can't wait to walk through Karen and Carol's Garden along with the other several other life-sized gardens fully decked out and on display for the show. General all ages admission to the show is $10 and you can purchase tickets in advance or at the door.
Here's a little more info. from the website:
Enjoy daily performances by Ahmed Hassan host of DIY Network's Yard Crashers, the spectacular 7 Gardens of the World, Outdoor Cooking Classes, and fun for all ages. Experience our Garden to Table – Incredible Edible Garden, Free Garden Seminars & Demonstrations, the Remarkable Green Market and more.
I'm really happy that Karen invited me and many other local folks to attend for hour to two hour slots to answer edible gardening questions. The programming that I'm involved in is called Meet the Experts! and you can check out the schedule here. I'll be hanging out and answering questions about new harvest extension techniques and food and drink fermentation from 2-3pm on Saturday, February 18th at the Incredible Edible Garden. I wouldn't call myself an expert, I'd call myself an enthusiast but there are folks participating in Meet the Experts! who are indeed experts who you might be interested in checking out including Vern Nelson, Linda Ziedrich and many others.
Please stop by and say hello. Hope to see you there!
Portland's 2012 Yard, Garden & Patio Show February 17-19, 2012 at the Oregon Convention Center www.ygpshow.com Tickets are $10 all ages and available at the door. Or you can... Buy tickets in advance
Yard Fresh Pt. 19
We've gotten a lot of good news in the past few weeks -- one of the biggest causes for celebration being McSweeney's picking up the Toro Bravo Cookbook that I'm writing with John Gorham, with photography by David Lanthan Reamer and illustrations by Tyler Adams! (We're busy working on it now and it comes out in fall 2013.) With all of that celebrating comes a certain number of meals out and cava corks popped.
Still, we've made some tasty food at home as always and below is some of what we've been cooking. Hope that you're doing well and eating well too. Please chime in with anything you've cooked lately that you've loved.
Oregon Mint Pt. 4
This is my last installment for the Oregon mint story. This section was going to be a sidebar for the print version...
Peppermint isn’t the only mint…
Sure, peppermint takes the cake in Oregon, but spearmint is a close second in terms of in-state cultivation. Two main differences between the mints are that peppermint plants are taller with bigger leaves, and peppermint has a stronger flavor and aroma than the sweeter, lighter tasting and smelling spearmint.
Steven Smith of Steven Smith Teamaker, a boutique tea company specializing in full leaf, small batch tea with a retail shop on Northwest Thurman, has been working with the same local spearmint growers since the mid-1970s -- Don, Monty and Marvin Mills of Mills Mint Farm in Stanfield, Oregon in Northeastern Oregon. The Mills family was amongst the first in Oregon to cultivate spearmint and peppermint.
In the mid-70s Smith was a co-owner of Stash Tea before it was sold in 1993 to Yamamotoyama in Japan. At that time Smith and the other Stash owners and employees purchased field run mint (unprocessed mint directly from the farm) from the Mills family and cleaned it in what is now !Oba! Restaurante but which was then Stash Tea headquarters. They used the mint for their tea and also sold mint to Lipton Tea and Celestial Seasonings.
Says Smith, “We cleaned mint there and stored some of it across the street in the Maddox Transfer building before they called the area the Pearl district – I think it should have been named the Mint District for the way it smelled back then.”
After selling Stash in the early 1990s Smith started Tazo Tea in his home kitchen which he sold to Starbucks in 1999 and continued to work for until 2006. In late 2009, Smith opened his newest tea endeavor -- Steven Smith Teamaker -- in the brick building next to the former Carlyle Restaurant on Northwest Thurman Street.
All of Smith’s spearmint to this day comes from Mills Mint Farm which cultivates 400 acres of spearmint annually with minimal inputs thanks to regular crop rotation (corn, wheat and peas) and intensive hand weeding. If you’d like to try Mills’ local leaves they are blended in Smith’s Fez tea -- a combination of Mao Feng China green tea, Oregon spearmint and Australian lemon myrtle leaves.
When asked why Smith still works with Mills Mint Farm he answers succinctly, “Flavor, appearance, aroma, overall approach to business, and long standing relationship.”
Who can argue with that?
Steven Smith Teamaker 1626 NW Thurman St. Portland, OR 503.719.8752 www.smithtea.com
Read Pt. 1 Oregon MintRead Pt. 2 Oregon MintRead Pt. 3 Oregon Mint